Product Review: The New Power Whisperer

The Power Whisperer, Type M is an upgraded version of the popular Power Whisperer emergency power system. Manufactured in the USA, in South Carolina, this is a mobile power system designed and built by Americans, with the prepper in mind.

This stealthy power supply provides power for a family when the lights go out; whether due to a storm or an EMP. Since it isn’t powered by a gasoline engine, there is no noise to alert the neighbors that you have power, while they are sitting in the dark.

Typical power generators are noisy, letting everyone around know that you have electrical power. They also require quite a bit of fuel, which can be hard to come by.

In the aftermath of an EMP or attack on the electrical grid, the noise that they make could be catastrophic, inviting attack from those who didn’t bother preparing for the emergency. As a silent system, the PowerWhispered won’t give you and your family away.

Power WhispererThe system consists of a high capacity, 100 amp hour, deep cycle lead-acid battery. The battery is charged by a 100 watt, second generation, flexible solar panel, which is stored in a compartment in the unit. 45 foot leads are provided for the solar panels, allowing you to put them on the roof or some hidden area, without giving away the presence of your PowerWhisperer.

A 2,000 watt voltage inverter provides sufficient power to run any home appliance or power tool. You can also use the 12 volt output for powering devices that are designed for plugging in to a car’s power system, such as for recharging a phone or other portable electronics.

Speaking of car’s power system, they’ve included a car charger for recharging your PowerWhisperer’s battery, when the sun goes down or on a stormy day. While solar is great to have, it only works while the sun is up. If you’re running the vehicle’s engine anyway, this gives you an option to recharge, at a rate of 5 amps.

A power station, enclosed inside the unit, provide breakers and connections for drawing power from the unit, as well as the unit’s controls. This is one of the areas that have been heavily upgraded, with a more sophisticated, user-friendly controller.

The new controller has a LCD display, giving you full information on battery voltage, charging amps, amp hours and much more important information. The 200 amp breaker is marine grade, providing sealing from the elements and ensuring that the unit won’t be damaged if it rains.

Connection for the solar panels is provided in the storage compartment. You can also attach additional solar panels for faster regeneration of the system.

The entire unit is housed in a rugged, 1/16 inch thick aluminum case, mounted on two large 10″ wheels, for easy transport, just like a hand truck. The aluminum keeps it lightweight, while the all-metal case makes it a perfect Faraday Cage.

All the components of the unit are protected from EMP, whether caused by a nuclear blast or solar activity. The PowerWhisperer can be used for bugging in or if you are bugging out to a prepared Power Whispererbug-out retreat, it can be brought along. Removable transport handles make it easy to carry, and can be removed for storage once you have reached your destination.

The housing is actually split into separate compartments for the power cell, storage and system management. It turns out there is no commercial grade hardware available for securing a 66.5 pound battery.

The designers solved this problem by putting the battery in its own compartment. A woodland pattern camouflage net is provided for help in concealing the unit from neighbors while in use.

The unit comes complete with an EMP protected compartment for storing the solar panels, that is also big enough for storage of radios and other small electronic devices, keeping them with the power supply, while protecting them from EMP. Made in the USA, you can be sure about the quality of this unit.

The Type-M is fully upgradable. The solar panel the unit comes with can be upgraded with the addition of a second 100 watt solar panel. There is also room to accomodate a second power cell, increasing storage capacity. You can even use the PowerWhisperer together with a wind turbine, integrating your power systems perfectly.

All in all, the upgrades to the PowerWhisperer have taken an already great unit and made it even better. Each one alone may not seem like much to brag about, but taken together, they make the overall unit easier to work with, more capable and more prepared to meet your needs when that next emergency comes along… even if it’s an EMP.

This article has been written by Bill White for Survivopedia.

Written by

Bill White is the author of Conquering the Coming Collapse, and a former Army officer, manufacturing engineer and business manager. More recently, he left the business world to work as a cross-cultural missionary on the Mexico border. Bill has been a survivalist since the 1970s, when the nation was in the latter days of the Cold War. He had determined to head into the Colorado Rockies, should Washington ever decide to push the button. While those days have passed, the knowledge Bill gained during that time hasn’t. He now works to educate others on the risks that exist in our society and how to prepare to meet them. You can send Bill a message at editor [at]

Latest comments
    • Andy again, well I was directed to contact Jim who evidentially knows the in and outs of this Power Whisper Inverter. . To start when going through the step with Jim I observed the solar battery wires were not soldered, just push in the panel connections. I then checked the auxiliary battery and wires and found that the wires were not crimped enough to hold the wires in place for contact. I then checked the primary battery on the dolly and found the battery to be cracked in four places with no leakage in the container. There to, the positive thick wire just slipped out of the shunt adapter. After all the trying Jim suggested I get a new battery and everything would light up light a Christmas tree. I purchased a new identical battery and was eager to set it up. When connecting the positive and negative cables we observed a current noise ,then two pops and then smoke coming out of the inverter. Nothing was connected to the unit, all switches were off, Just a battery hook up.

      We are aware of the warranty being outdated purchased in 2015, never open until now, We are appalled to see the poor workmanship in putting this unit together. This unit was expensive and had confidence in the seller and to see this kind of issues is unacceptable. We hope we could get some kind of resolution. and hope the seller will contact me. This is a survival supply where one should be able to depend on it. Andy Lee,

      • Hello, my mother bought one of these and never really took it out of the packing jump ahead to 2018 I saw it in the garage and read the manual it says not to let the battery go dead etc which my mother did do. I just looked at the outside & looked at the solar panel then called the man in north or south carolina & he said to try t recharge it slowly using the solar panel but my mother was ill – I left my home in another state and became the sole caregiver she was starting to have dementia and was a hand full. so no time to do anything else. so jump ahead to 2021 I have he unit back in my home state mom passed away – and I wanted to try to get the unit up & running its summer and we are having sun in washington state – however, after reading your experience I am almost afraid to look at places where wires are – when i asked the guy who made these if i could buy a new battery he made it sound lie it wouldnt be worth it? how much was your battery? – and in the end- did they ever make it right or you?. with all of the wires not connected etc on yours I am shocked and truly hope they would stand behind their brand etc? if you get this will you please let me know what happened in the end?

      • These guys prey on the uniformed. Instruction book is full of typos and misspellings. Have a question? Good luck! They won’t respond. They say they “build” the units in South Carolina, but they actually just assemble multiple pieces into one unit and call it their own. Some of the parts are made in Asia, but they won’t tell you that. Total ripoff and they should be shut down. Do not order any thing from these clownish con men.

  • 2Kw is nice, but won’t drive much. My biggest question is, is it modified or pure sine wave? Modified works good for incandescent lights and heating coils. But, it will cause a motor to overheat over time and is highly discouraged to be used with electronics.

    • Ditto to D Hopper’s question….full or modified sine wave??

      • Pure “full” sine wave inverter definitely if you plan on running/charging any electronic devices at all…..modified is hard on electronics, restrictive and inductive loads and will eventually burn them up….


    • Modified Sine Wave “Peak Auto” (yep the antifreeze guys) 2000 watt “Work Site” inveter… are correct in all your heating appliances like electric eaters, electric hot paltes, etc forget those….
      The unit has a 1 or 2 100 amp hour batteries (depending on option you may choose) so at best it is useful for running a small efficiency fridge and/or some lights (I have found that LED lights do work) but you are correct that any electronics plugged into a modified sine wave inverter will eventually damage them over time….
      Also, any power tool battery chargers with high voltage chargers, direct outlet plug in devices like emergency lights, razors, night lghts, varible speed fans/tool, digital clocks, laser printers, meta hydride lights, lights with electronic ballasts (fluorescent), pellet stoves with electronic controllers, electronic controlled sewing machines, oxygen concentrators and other medical devices, X-10 home automtion devices, AC frequency modulators (plug in phone jacks that use home wiring, etc. will either not work or be destroyed….
      The main thing is power management when using the unit especially like a fridge/freezer….close attention must be paid to power coming in and power going out…the best operational procedure here is to plug the fridge/frezer in and run for 2 hours, unplug, then plug back in for 2more hours and continue this alternating power management protocol….then unplug for 8 hours at night….(cover the fridge/freezer with a moving style heavy duty blanket to help insulate the fridge/freezer from cold loss….
      A full fridge/freezer can be easily unplugged for 2 hours at a a time and still maintain cold temps inside…but the door cannot be opened often…and with a blanket draped over it a fridge/freezer can can be unplugged overnight but the doors cannot be opened during the 8 hour “hibernation” period…
      I’ve done all this and have been building solar generators for a long time and have the experience to make these comments….
      The main issue is battery amp hour use and wattage, voltages and currents of the attached electronics/appliances….
      Math? Here are a few formulas to help estimate run times (considering no solar panel input)

      Example appliance ratings…(remember we are using 12 volts not 120 volts to run the inverer/load) and have to figure in inefficiency of inverter so go ahead and figure in 15% more power needed because of inverter’s inefficiency and energy and power use:

      So considering an appliance/electronics/lights/etc. here we go:
      Using a 200 amp hour battery as an example….
      AC Ratings:
      -1050 watt appliance/device

      -1050 watts x .15= 157.5 watts (inefficiency of inverter and power used to run it)

      -1207.7 total watts needed

      -1207.5watts/120 AC volts=10.06amps (current)

      -200 amp hour rating of battery /10 =20 amp hours @120 V AC
      (we are using 12 volts to run 120 volt stuff hence division by 10 here to see how much AC amperage can be pulled from battery/s)

      -20 amp hours @ 120 volts AC /10.06 amps=1.98 hours of operating time on a 200 amp hour DC battery/battery bank…

      This tales into account running a battery down to dead (10.5 volts or lower)….don’t ever do this..only 80% discharge is recommended to 11.7 volts (difference between a fully charged battery and a depleted battery is only 1.5 volts) so don’t ever discharge the whole 1.5 volts but only 80% of that so only 1.2 volts….that being said the lowest voltage you want take a deep cycle battery to is 12.9-1.2=11.7 volts…

      So in actuality run time would be approximated at 80% of calculated so real world run time?

      1.98 hours x .80= only 1.5 hours…..

      So there are so many factors I cn’t explain it ll here but f panels are hooked up and charing batteries while using this “example appliance” then make sure you are charging the batteries at a rate equal to or higher than power that is going out….so using 10.06 amps you want 10.06 aps coming back into the btteries…

      Then there is inefficiency of solar panels….a 150 watt rated panel will not provide 150 watts even in perfect conditions…more like 100 watts under perfect conditions….

      And efficiency vary between panels; mono, poly, amorphous, silicon, etc…so that is another factor to consider….

      This is a really complicated subject with so many varibes that most people are very disappointed in what these solar generators can actually power and how long they can power a load and time to recharge and power management so one doesn’t kill their batteries….it is very complex subject…

      So do your homework before purchasing any solar generator available on the market….

      Hope this helps everyone mke an informed decision before purchasing and then being disappointed in the actual performance of your selected solar generator….


    • 2Kw is nice for temporary power – charge your phone, computer, etc. “The system consists of a high capacity, 100 amp hour, deep cycle lead-acid battery. The battery is charged by a 100 watt, second generation, flexible solar panel” So after you’ve drained your battery, the 100 watt solar panel will only recharge it at 8 amps and would take 14 hours of direct bright sunlight (2 to 3 days). Maybe enough power to keep a 40 watt incandescent light running 24 x 7.

  • “The aluminum keeps it lightweight, while the all-metal case makes it a perfect Faraday Cage”….
    The unit is at best is EMP resistant because there are gaps around the top where it meet the body of the unit….
    It would be EMP resistant only from a localized HEMP blast that occurs hundreds or thousands miles away….a direct HEMP near where the unit is will let the high emissions of high energy electrons (40kV/meter at ground level) to penetrate the gaps and take out the inverter, solar controller and AC charge unit…the E1 pulse will penetrate any gaps in any not totally sealed protection “cage:…

    A Farady Cage cannot have any gaps, holes, faulty bonding between metals…it has to be completely sealed….gaps and “leaky” seams only act as antennas for the E1 pulse…..a HEMP detonation includes 3 pulses E1, E2, and E3….

    A solar flare emits only E3 pulse and will induce ultra high volatges in any long conductor like power lines, phone lines, water lines, cable TV lines, etc….

    The E3 pulse will not destroy electronics like cell phones, laptops, MP3 palyers etc. but f the Power Whisperer is plugged in charging during a solar flare/CME of high enough energy it will fry it too….

    If it’s unplugged and not set up with the panels connected and charging it will survive….but if not it ill be destroyed also….

    So a HEMP with 3 pulses (E1, E2, E3) will take out all electronics not protected in a correctly built Faraday Cage with absolute no gaps, holes, etc….even a pin size hole will allow the E1 pulse to enter any faulty cage…

    E1-high energy electromagnetic pulse that occurs in micro seconds…
    E2-lower energy, slower pulse…
    E3-akin to a direct lightening strike that lasts seconds but induces very high voltages in long conductors….

    Want proof? read about StarFish Prime and the Russian HEMP tests…destruction was above and beyond of what engineers expected…. taking out power plants, substations, transformers, phone systems, military grade generators, etc….

    Also a good book is “Disaster Preparedness for EMP Attacks and Solar Storms” this is the premier ntro to HEMPs, solar flares, the effects and what to do to protect electronics against these contingencies….

    The Power Whisperer is a nice unit but I don’t want people to think it is 100% hardened against and HEMP/CME and it is a true Faraday Cage and they can just store it and expect to have it work in case of the contingencies mentioned above….

    At best it is housed in a cool looking transport carrier and is resistant only to far away HEMPs and if plugged in or set up during a CME (X-class or lower class high energy localized CME) the unit is fryed….

    The solution? Build a real Cage, building or room ad store it in that…charge it via AC every 3 months, then unplug and put it bak into a true Faraday Cage…this way it will survive and can be used after the event/s (HEMP/CME)…..don’t take it right out after he first event as multiple events like multiple HEMP will be deployed so ive it 24 hours before taking anything out of your real, hardened Faraday Cage….


  • Well and I ask this to satisfy myself. How is this going to survive an E M P? And how is this going to survive Nibiru. Yes and if you don’t think it’s going to happen. That’s fine. Just answer the first question. And multiply your E M P x 10.

  • This is a great tool. However once you have lights or anything running like your regular noisy fridge for example people will know you gave power! Once you have everything set up one has to be very quiet. Like they did while on hiding from Germans in Holland in WW11 for example. No power at all! One has to be very careful if the toys they choose to use. If you are set up like a tank you can probably use one. As for roof top access any one can get up if they want too and remember people will be in gang groups. They will know all peeper angles too so you may have to shoot to kill to keep what you have. Just look at what Catriena did for people!! Yikes, and that was mild. Anything long term will quickly become s nightmare becomes bullies come out of the woodwork in droves. At least in Canada we have some fun limits. In the US you will have to deal with those who have arms that can level your house! The best solution is to learn how to vanish. I mean vanish!! Just a thought. Extreme temperature places are where most people will not want to go. There is the real option including the mountains. But being prepared for those areas means to know how to live totally off the grid!! Those who can will be the ones to survive. Period. The rest will be open to what ever comes along. Learn how now!!!! That is war. The war to survive is no less dirty than any other war. Take a look around you in the world. Why do you think there are 5 million people leaving and deciding the rest of the world needs to look after them? Just wait till that number hits a few hundred million, the west included!!!!
    A huge shift is all but here. Look at the site called The Solaris report and find out just how thin a line you sit on and how close you are to living in a card board box. Thanks for reading. Vicki

    • You are absolutely correct….operational security is paramount… out panels must be used to totally seal a residence so ere is no light leakage at night outside of the home…I have built black out panels for all doors and windows…
      Also community groups must be formed as no one family can defend their home…need several families working and living together so can have 24 hour sentries 24/7….
      As for your gun opinion I disagree…without our 2nd amendment right here in the US to bear arms there is no hope for survival period….what kind of weapon are you talking about? The public here cannot own bazooka, tank, etc. as you have implied…I belive misinformation has perpetrated your Canadian mainstream news about misinformation here in the states about what is available to the public…..Canadians are at a great disadvantage as they have no way to prtect themselves from roaming gangs….
      You are correct though that there will be total chaos but “vanishing” is not a solution either…roaming gangs will fnd those places too and do more horrible thugs to the residents due t the isolation…..survival will be a cooperative effort in neighborhoods that have come together and each will contribute a skill like defense, gardening, water gathering, home repairs, canning, sewing and mending, first aid, hunting/fishing, etc. No one person or small family alone can do all the required tasks….they will be overcome by exhaustion, killed by gangs or go nuts being alone and trying to do all things necessary….
      No guns and isolation alone with no community backup will absolutely result in some of the first casualties….community groups who have banded together beforehand to share responsibilities will survive….
      After 10 missed meals is the point where people will start killing others for food and supplies….that’s why its important to form a community survival group before any chaos begins…
      Survival will be a group effort and not running to the hills and think you’re safe…because people who do that will succumb to either the roaming gangs or insanity from isolation….
      Watch the movie “The Road” and read the book”One Second After” ….this is fact wrapped up in a “fictional” movie and a novel but outlines exactly what will happen….
      To reiterate people who think they can run to hills or hide inan underground bunker will perish firrst because you are right…gangs will now that people are going to bug out isolated locations and going underground…so these people will be ferreted out pretty quickly and killed….all a gang has to do is find the vent shafts for bunkers are and block them up and people underground will suffocate to death and then teir pricey bunker will be breached….people who high tail it to the hills will be notice on their way there and followed and meet a quick death before they even get in the door…..
      So IMO, you are correct on some points and way off on others….

  • I was interested in the cost of this device, but after about ten minutes of informercial, I turned it off. Get to the dang point, and quit the infomercials.

    Being forced to watch those things always makes me feel like a sucker, which is how the makers of these infomercials must view everyone.

    I still don’t know what the asking price is. Never mind, I’ll just google information. Thanks for the fear-conjuring ad.

    • $3108.00 base unit,,,$41197.00 for the unit with extra battery and solar panel….plus shipping….


    • Base unit one battery one solar panel $3108.00 and upgrade to unit with 2 batteries and 2 panels $4117.00…plus shipping…


      • I can build this myself for less 800, probably less than 600.
        I suppose most people can’t. stbt..

        I threw one together temporarily to run a 110v fence charger
        to contain the horses a few days ago, just make it permanent, add
        a second deep cycle battery and better controls a dolly.. less that $500.00
        The 100 watt solar panel takes forever to recharge though.
        I’d put three of 100 watters on the dolly.
        a little more bulky but it will work.

        • Yep, you’re absolutely right….one can build these units from anywhere from 300 dollars and on up….

          depends on quality of parts chosen…the Power Whisperer is well over priced I agree…

          output depends on type of panels used as this is he most costly component of the whole unit….

          If for instance one wants to build one from Harbor Freight components it can be done in the 300-500 range….

          Harbor Freight has amorphous rigid panels for cheap but these are very ineficent (get what you pay for especially with panel types; noncrystalline being the best, poly second and so forth)….

          just depends on the quality of parts/panels one wants to use…..I would go with a rolling tool case, MorningStar Controller, 100 amp hour deep cycle battery and rollup 100 watt panels….and odds and ends like connectors, wiring, battery ANL fuse etc. so this one would be close to $1500 with the rollup panels (2) being the bulk of the expense….

          I would also use a pure sine wave inveter and not a modified sine wave one,..that adds extra $ also….

          So it’s all about application one wants to use it for, quality of parts, etc, and that is directly related to price….

          To run a string of DC LED 3 watt camping lights one could use a 14 Ah battery, charge controller, some cheap panels and forget the inverter all together and come in around $300 or cheaper…

          price just depends on what one wants to do with a solar generator…the Power Whisperer is nice but price point is set at about a 100% profit margin…..

          one can build this unit for about $1500.00 bucks….the inverter in the unit is very cheap at an auto supply store, the AC charger Schumacher is about $15 bucks at Walmart, etc. The battery is about 200 bucks and one panel is around $300.00, the charge controller on Amazon is about $130 so with assembly parts like wire fuses, circuit breakers total cost my best guess with custom rolling case is around $1700 and they sell for around $3000.00 to $4200 depending on if one gets an extra battery and panel…

          so profit margin is 100% minus of course labor to assemble so still in the range of a 75% to 80% profit margin…well over priced for what it is for sure….


    • It won’t survive….it’s not even close to being a true Faraday many gaps and unsealed holes….it would be toast if in the line of site of a HEMP….
      An 80dB reduction in energy release from the 40kV per meter that the E1 pulse will emit in milliseconds would be needed to have any chance of surviving a HEMP…even a pinhole sized hole renders a protective cage useless….see my other post for more details…so it would have to be stored in a professional/military grade Faraday enclosure to have any chance of surviving a line of site HEMP….
      As for a CME/solar flare if something isn’t plugged in it will be OK as a CME only has the E3 pulse but an X class CME will definitely fry the grid….so build a real Faraday Cage and put the Power Whisperer in it ….and test, test, test your Farady cage with a frequency generator, high powered amp, spectrum analyzer, etc. and be sure that the cage provides a 70-80 dB reduction in a high power pulse aimed at the cage…then you may have a chance to bring the unit out after a HEMP or multiple HEMPs hit…wait 24 hours before taking anything out of your homemade, tested and verified cage as the chance f just one HEMP is slim…IMO there will be at least 3 to cover the west, central and eastern US to ensure total grid collapse and complete destruction of all electronics/computers/phones/ cars/everything that is electronic or has electronic components in it…

  • I’ve heard an EMP will disable automobiles, how can you charge the battery if an EMP has taken your car electronics out? I’m Leary of much of what I read on the Internet, and I know I’ve read articles you have published about EMTs destructive power. Seems like you use scare tactics to sell products and you will say anything to make a sale! Hillary Clinton and Barrack Hussein Obama will say anything to get votes, people are funny, now you funny too!

    • All vehicle survivability is theoretical as well as all other effects….you have to get maintenance manual for your car, learn car repair then track down all computer chips in your car, stockpile them, re-wire, re-route, bypass systems, stockpile starters, alternators, the main computer control module and stockpile this too, etc. all in a real, hardened Faraday cage, etc.
      This is a very complex and time consuming process…as for electric cars or hybrids forget it…too many computer control systems to even thinking about trying to repair after a HEMP….

      The “reset” theory of just unhooking the car’s battery and re-hooking it back up may reset some systems enough so you can get the car started and mobile again….but a lot of the computer control systems will already be destroyed and may not let the car start after replacing starter/alternator, wiring, etc. This is another theoretical aspect that may or may not work….

      So best to get a pre-1980 or earlier car with all mechanical systems and stockpile a starter, alternator, battery, wiring harness, etc….and get the maintenance manual…that way it’ll be relatively easy to get an old car back up and running….and get a bike, 3 wheeler bike, moped, 4 wheeler, etc. Something really easy to work on and get you mobile again….

      As for batteries that are in storage, theoretically they will not be affected….so they ‘ll be OK…but I would put all electrical backup parts in a Faraday Cage to be on the safe side…

      A CME/solar flare will probably not affect cars…I know anything not plugged into the grid will be OK during a CME….the grid will be toast though if it is a X-Class flare with a direct hit…it only has pulse E3 and will indce high voltages in log conductors like power lines, phone lines, cable lines, pipes, etc.

      As for a HEMP with 3 high energy pulses it will destroy everything electronic…

      As for batteries (small AAA up to deep cycle) if hey are not connected but in storage theoretically they should not be affected…

      There are no absolutes to destruction and/or damage….

      Read about governmental experiments like StarFish Prime and the Russian test in the ’60s…it’ll give you an idea of what could happen at ground level after a HEMP..

      Again it’s all theoretical and no absolutes….just prepare the best you can and a a backup fo your backup…

      “One is none, 2 is one and 3 is just enough”….

      Read “One Second After” and “One Year Later” to get a relatively accurate account of what to expect…they are novels but based on facts that are known and have been observed and documented by governmental HEMP testing….


  • Lock & Load! Obama is doing everything he can to make it easy for his Islamic cousins to come into our homeland and kill Americans! Ammo, ammo, ammo, ammo! Don’t shoot til you look em in the eyes! If this fraudulent president opens the borders to isis, we have no choice but to kill or be killed! Good luck, we’re gonna need it!

    • Yep, the Trans Pacific Partisanship is intended to do this exact thing…flood the country with unabated illegal immigration….1000 worse as what it is now….also to destroy more businesses by sending even more jobs overseas….

      The truth is scary so prepare the best you can and become mentally tough….

    • The point of unabated immigration is to build a fighting force that has no compunction against taking out Americans and fulfilling the “grand plan”….be prepared…..


  • Get a Honda generator, and a solar power board! Ammo plenty of ammo!

  • I received from a friend a Power Whisper M type with a dolly. I have two acid batteries that it was ordered on 2015. Question? The battery is most likely dead?
    Where is manual that I could download and how to set it up?

    • Hi my mother bought one & never even unpacked it, she didn’t know that it had to be continually charged & not left for years untouched so I also need a manual & battery info. I called a guy in south carolina who I think made these & he said the battery is probably not going to charge back up but if I was going to try it, to use the solar panel method so it stars slowly? he also said that it isn’t worth replacing the battery when I asked where I could get another one? Im not sure if he had just been selling a flash in the pan & then stopped because he was not selling them when I contacted him, maybe it simply isn’t a good product so the company did a flash selling spree then vanished? f you ever figure out any battery or other info I would appreciate hearing about it thank you…